Draping and pleating on dresses

It has been a while since i posted on my blog, but moving to Cape Town has been an awesome but life changing experience, especially having 3 small children and a couture business that had to make the switch.

But I would like to chat about rouging, pleating and draping on a formal or wedding garment. It really ads something so special and unique, especially if it is done right and with really lovely fabrics. I find that this technique really enhances the look of the fabrics, as the light plays of the pleated or rouged surface in a stunning way and in so many dimensions. I have added some photos for you to look at.

To pleat the fabric for a gown for draping or a skirt, i would suggest to get it professionally done as there are so many ways to pleat fabrics. My favorite pleating to use on the bodice of a gown or draping on the back or side of a skirt is mushroom pleating. It is slightly messy, not so perfect as a fine knife or sunray pleat. It gives a lovely flat and smooth finish, and with the finest of tacking stitches can lie perfectly in the way you want it.

When costing a gown, I charge a fair amount of labour for this is it is a time consuming technique but well worth the effort. To really make this finished look special, I like to add Svarovsky crystals to the pleated finish, following the direction of the pleat or creating interesting integrating patterns on the fabrics. From a distance it really has a stunning effect and close up it enhances the detailing of the fabrics.

Next time I will discuss the art of lace, which is very popular in its full or in little appliqued cutouts. As Kate Middleton proved  by wearing that stunning wedding gown of hers with all the fine Chantilly finishes on it.

Hunting for the perfect fabrics

fabrics are such an important part of creating the dream wedding gown that if chosen right it can be the creations of dreams, if chosen wrong it can spoil the whole effect wanted and the look needed for the occasion.
there are so many fabrics to choose from, chiffons, satin, silks in all types, beaded laces from embroidered lace to guipure lace, belgium lace, stretch lace, beaded appliquable lace, brocades, duchesse satins, bridal satins, etc etc etc.

firstly the look of the dress determines the fabrics that you need to use, i.e if the dress has pick ups in the skirt then a stiffer more full bodied fabric like duchesses satin, taffeta or raw silk is required to create those pickups so that they stand up better and give body to the skirt.

if you want a more flowy gown that will wisp up and out as the wind catches it the best fabrics for this will be a good chiffon especially a silk chiffon as it is extremely light and gorgeous.
now imagine doing this last dress in a taffeta, ugh, the effect will be quite different especially if you were aiming for those beachy windy wifty photos you have always dreamt about, you will rather look like a flat parachute.

your dress maker should know exactly which fabrics will work where to make the best of your dream gown.

When to start the process

When is the best time to start the process of creating your dream wedding dress, bridesmaids dresses, mother of the bride and groom, flowergirls etc etc.? There is so much to do in so little time. I would say that a time frame of 3 -6 months is a great time to give to get your wedding dresses made. If your dress is more complex in nature, ie. very wide skirt, lots of beadwork, lace work, diamante applied techniques, frilly skirts, historical type of wedding dress styling, a time frame of 6 months is better as this requires a huge amount of work by hand and extremely wonderfully delicate finishes.

When a chantilly lace, beaded lace of beaded netted fabrics are to be chosen for the weddinggown then a lot of hand work is required to create the perfect looking gown. The fabric needs to be used in such a way that the dress presents 'whole' in its finishing. What i mean by this is that lace cannot be cut in panels just roughly. if the lace is in sections, each section needs to be cut out and reapplied to the finished garment to give an overall finished look. The lace sections must be whole section over seams and hems, definately not cut through it to reveal a half cut and frayed piece of lace. The hems and necklines also needs to be finished with the lace edging, by handstitches and then some beadwork to finish it neatly.

In my next post i will discuss more on the application of beaded fabrics to the weddinggowns and other dresses needed.

how to start the BIG search for the dream wedding dress

When a girl gets asked by her man for her hand in marriage, the ring is on, the date is set (most of the time anyway) then the first thing that normally goes through the poor girls head is " AAARGGG, i need a wedding dress. my dream dress. where will i get it, who will help me make it, will i find the dress in the boutiques. where do i start.

ok, through my years of experience, working with brides from all walks of life, all shapes and sizes, tastes and styles, i have learned that a girls first choice of dress, the idea that is deep in her heart, her imagination, the dress that she dreams about walking down the isle with, or prancing around in it on the dancefloor with her 'prince', whatever fantasy she has around that specific dress, that is the dress she needs to opt for.

when you start looking for the perfect wedding dress, make sure you have all your ideas together, your colourscheme, your preferances in finishes and fabrics (if you have an idea of fabrics and finishes). first try dresses on in boutiques if you are not completely sure of what you want, otherwise search some good referred boutiques for the style of dress you desire. if you do not come right with finding the perfect wedding dress, then your search for the wedding dressmaker starts, speak to your friends, look at portfolios on the internet, look at magazines and search from there.

Find a couturier or dressmaker that has a portfolio of work of wedding dresses that is in the league of dress that you want. Then you have to make an appointment for a consultation. Find out first what they charge for a consultation fee, and if it is refundable if you order the dress to be made.

Things to watch out for when you see a designer or dressmaker, do not let them talk you out of getting the exact dress you want. Normally if they mmm and ahhh around the making of exactly the dress you want, then they are not capable of the task at hand or they are trying to force their ideas on you.

I have learnt that i girl wants to look absolutely breathtaking on her special day, and that the dress she dreams of will make her look exactly that. I then approach the design from the point of her being able to wear it, but i will make the dress fit her proportions exactly, complimenting her assets and reshaping and hiding the little areas she is self conscious about.

I personally feel that any dress style suits any body shape and size, it is what you do with it and how you create it to fit that body, that counts.

The dressmakers finishes must be of high quality and the fabrics must be good and correct to use in the styling of the dress.

As i progress writing my blog, i will advise on how the dress should be approached in the making of it, and how your fittings and deadline dates etc. should go. So please look out for the next section on 'how to get your perfect wedding dress'.